Custom Jewellery: 9 Steps to Success

The crisp fall air welcomes warm sweaters, the fall rhapsody, and everything pumpkin spice.  In the jewellery industry, the crisp fall air signals that the holidays are fast approaching, oh how nice.  Workshops are teeming with repairs, new stock, and custom jewellery commissions.  Just like a cup of your favourite pumpkin spice latte, the jeweller’s bench is filled to the brim.  

Custom jewellery commissions provide jewellers with an opportunity to express their artistic capabilities and to demonstrate their skills.  For clients, a custom piece of jewellery is the ultimate way of showing someone how much they mean to you.         

Before you embark on the exciting journey of creating a custom piece of jewellery, there are a few things you should know FIRST to ensure the project is completed on time, on budget and the way to imagined it, if not BETTER!

Custom jewellery items, like the Iconic Flamingo Brooch by Cartier are the ultimate way of showing someone how much you care.
The iconic Flamingo Brooch commissioned by the Duke of Windsor, crafted by Cartier Paris in 1940, and presented to Wallis Simpson as seen in the book Beautiful Creatures by Marion Fasel. Notice the original rendering on the left. Photo Credit: @acgemlab

9 Tips for a Successful Custom Jewellery Commission

1. Timing is Everything

From the initial consultation to delivery, custom jewellery can take six weeks or more to complete depending on the complexity of the design. If you are planning to present someone special with a one-of-a-kind piece of jewellery, make sure you start the process early.  Factor in at least an extra week as a buffer in case an unexpected circumstance delays the project.  We all know how unreliable the mail can be and what happens when technology fails.    

2. Do Your Homework

Selecting the right jeweller is just as important as selecting the right design or the right stone.  As artists, each jeweller has their own style, skills, and preferred medium.  Look at their portfolio, many will have it easily accessible online.  Has the jeweller demonstrated that they can create the style you want? Some jewellers can do it all, but it is best to make sure they are suited to your desired design.  Do they have the skills necessary to create a design that is beautiful and structurally sound?  It’s like engineers vs architects, if you want a building (or a piece of jewellery) to last, you need both.  

3. Be Inspired

If you have decided to create a custom item, you probably have a vision of what you want the final piece to look like.  Images are a great way to communicate your vision to the jeweller.  You can use images of finished jewellery or other design motifs (ex. animals, nature, patterns) for inspiration. But, do not expect the jeweller to make an exact copy of someone else’s design, that would result in copyright infringement.

4. Be Open to Suggestions

With so many design possibilities, it can be overwhelming to narrow down the choices.  The jeweller needs to understand how and when the item will be worn.  Is it going to be an everyday piece or reserved for special occasions?  With this information, the jeweller can suggest modifications to the design that will ensure the item is structurally sound while maintaining the overall vision.  

5. Know your Budget

Before engaging in the custom jewellery process, have a clear idea of your budget.  Make sure to add a contingency to the budget for add-ons or upgrades that might be added later in the process.  Depending on your design and budget expectations, the jeweller can suggest styles and materials that will work within your budget. Remember that one-of-a-kind pieces command a higher price.  Are you happy to pay extra to get the exact design you want? Most people are, but for smaller budgets customizations on standard settings can give a custom look without the full custom price tag.  A cost-effective customization is to engrave a special inscription.    

6. Know the Size

This is very important for rings but is applicable to other jewellery styles as well.  Ideally, it is best to create a ring in the exact size needed to prevent sizing after the fact.  For chains, consider the style of clothing the recipient wears and what length will suit those styles (ex. collard blouse vs. turtleneck sweater).  For bracelets consider the wrist size, you don’t want it to be too tight or too loose.  For earrings consider the recipien’ts hair style and the size of earrings they typically wear.  Although it is nice to try something new, you don’t want to create a custom piece that will be impractical or uncomfortable to wear.   

7. Final Sale

Custom jewellery is final sale 99% of the time.  Make sure that you can use your imagination to picture the final piece.  With the help of advanced CAD design programs clients can get a realistic view of the piece before any materials have been forged.  Keep in mind that not all jewellers use this technology.  If you can envision the item from a hand drawn sketch this may not be important to you.  But if you are someone who needs to see the CAD designs, make sure your jeweller has the technology to do so.  The custom process may not suit everyone- it can be hard if the result is not exactly what you pictured.  

8. Still Not Sure

If you are feeling uncertain after you have signed off on the final design, ask to have a wax model made.  In most cases, wax models can be tried on albeit delicately, and stones gently placed on the setting.  This is a great way to get a sense of the item’s scale and provides the perfect opportunity to make slight adjustments as needed. 

9. Feel the Connection

Work with a jeweller that you connect with.  The creative process is something very personal.  A great jeweller will transform their passion into a stunning piece of jewellery that will be worn with pride.  

Although the process may seem daunting, with proper preparations and the right jeweller, creating a custom piece of jewellery will be seamless.  Do you have questions about creating a custom piece of jewellery or need guidance navigating the process? Contact AC Appraisals for assistance.

Written By: Alanna Campbell, GIA GG, RMV October 26, 2021

Opinions and experiences are my own.